We left Kampong Cham early in the morning on a well-haggled-for local minibus headed for the capital, Phnom Penh. Much of Cambodia’s bloody recent history took place around Phnom Penh. The most notorious of the Khmer Rouge prisons, S-21, is there and the Choeung Ek killing fields are just a few km outside of town. The country is, of course, still recovering from the genocide that killed more than a million Khmer people.

Asking for directions in Phnom Penh is hilarious. Everyone and their mother has a tuk-tuk or gives moto rides so its generally not in their interest to point someone who insists on walking in the right direction. We were dropped off near the central market and managed to walk to the russian market and find a guesthouse, ignoring the “help” from the army of hungry tuk-tuk drivers. While we were eating dinner at the guesthouse we made friends with some Irish travelers and went out for drink with them. We ended up dancing the night away at a club called Heart of Darkness…

I was feeling pretty sick the next day - a little hung over but something else was keeping my stomach very displeased all day. I went with Anja and Dan to the Tuol Sleng museum (S-21) that afternoon but had to leave soon after - walking through a museum about the slow and painful deaths of thousands of people was more than I could take at the moment.